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Visual Inspection (Max - 200 Points)
The general condition of the engine compartment can give important clues to
the care and talent of the mechanics that have worked on the car. Loose
wires, plugged hoses and added gadgets are all a sign that problems exist that
have not been solved. A dealer detail is also a cause for concern.
The engine compartment should be neat and orderly and unless the car is show car
have a little oil and grease here and there. A very dirty engine is a
indication that there are minor or major leaks that have collected dirt.
It also makes it difficult to detect minor leaks. In extreme cases a dye
can be added to the oil and a special light used to pin point leaks - but most
PPI will not allow this level of detail.
Oil and Engine Internals
 | Dipstick
Check - Remove the dip stick and check for
varnish and water in the oil. If the oil has a creamy look it is very
possible that water from the cooling system has found its way into the
crankcase. This
could be as simple as a bad oil cooler in the radiator to a blown head gasket
or cracked head or block. Contaminated oil has to be taken seriously and
investigated closely especially if accompanied with cooling system
problems. The dip stick can also give an indication to the age and
condition of the engine.
(Deduct 200 points for water
in the oil)
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| Oil
Filler - Inspect the oil filler area gives a good
indication of age. If the car is billed as a low mileage car but has
excessive vanish build up in these areas it is an indication that the actual
mileage may differ from the recorded miles. On a car with more than 30K
this is less important as an indicator.
(Deduct 20 points for an engine that appears older
than advertised)
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Hoses
and Belts
| Vacuum
Hoses - Many of the accessories on the engine and car are
controlled by vacuum. The smaller colored vacuum hoses have a very long
life time and can last 20 or more years, however hoses close to the engine get
brittle from heat and age and should be replaced periodically. Look for
vacuum hoses that have been plugged as this indicates problems that were not
solved. The newer the car the more important that the vacuum hoses are
kept in good shape.
(Deduct one point for bad or old hoses and an
additional two points for plugged or missing hoses)
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| Fresh
Air Hoses - The fresh air hoses from the
front of the engine feed air to the air cleaner. Remove the top of the
air cleaner and check the condition and for debris. It is typical especially
on the older models to see a bit of oil residue in the bottom part of the air
cleaner. This can be as much as a couple of teaspoons without anything
to worry about.
(Deduct up to 2 points for bad or missing air
hoses. Deduct 5 points for a bad air cleaner)
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| Smog
Hoses - The smog hoses are generally cloth covered rubber
hoses. Over time these just plain rot. There is a vapor recovery
system that captures fumes from the gas tank and filters back though a charcoal
filter. Any break in these hose can cause a gas smell in the car.
Check the fan belts for condition and tension. (Deduct one to two points
for any broken or rotted hoses.)
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Oil Leaks
There are three sources of oil leaks on the
engine - Engine oil, Power Steering Fluid and the Automatic Transmission
cooler. Engine oil will always brown or natural color while both
transmission oil is red.
| Power Steering - The power steering reservoir is located on the
left front fender well. The feed hose comes out of the bottom of the
reservoir and into the top of the pump. This hose often leaks for some
odd reason. Wipe it down at the start of the inspection and check it
at the end to see if it accumulates any seepage. This is an easy fix
and can explain oil in the front part of the car. There is a a high
pressure hose that comes back from the rack that runs along the side of the
inner fender well. This hose is a common failure point and should be
inspected for age and leaks. Remove the cover on the power steering
reservoir and check the level - a low level suggests a leak. The power
steering pump can also leak - check the front area around the pulley.
(Deduct three points for bad high pressure hoses. Deduct five points for a
leaky pump)
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| Oil Cooler - Some models (78-79 and 85-86) used the radiator end
tank to help cool the engine oil. The later models had a separate oil
cooler mounted on top of the radiator. The oil is fed from the lower
left side of the engine by the oil filter by two large rubber hoses.
With age these hoses begin to leak and are expensive to replace.
Inspect all of the connections looking for very clean areas or oil at the
connections. The most common place for a leak is where the metal ends
connect to the hoses. Oil running down on the back of the alternator
often is a result of these hoses leaking. On the older models (pre-85)
it is questionable if the cooler is needed and can be removed without harm
to the engine. (See Procedure) The oil cooler can also leak into the
radiator. While not the only source of oil in the water, this is a
point to check. (Deduct ten points for each bad oil hose)
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| Automatic Transmission - The transmission also uses a cooler in
the end tank of the radiator to cool the transmission oil. The hoses
connect on the right side of the engine and have the typical problem of
hoses - getting old. Red oil in this area indicates a transmission
leak.
(Deduct five points for transmission oil leaks)
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| Engine Oil Leaks - Since the engine is an aluminum engine it is
possible for it to leak oil from almost any place. Typical areas are
the cam covers, the oil pan, oil sending unit and front and rear
seals. The oil pan is very low to the ground and it is not uncommon
for it to come in contact with road hazards. It is also possible for the
block to be cracked in the same fashion. Often these repairs are made
with epoxy. Epoxy not a bad way to repair a cracked oil pan that is
not subject to high oil pressure, but the block is another story. Oil
pan gaskets are difficult to replace with the engine in the car but the
bolts can often be tightened to the point where there is very little seepage.
Other oil leaks are also possible to fix with a little effort. Leaks
around the front of the engine that come from either the front seal or oil
pump are more difficult but can be included in a timing belt change. A
rear engine oil seal leak is more serious, harder to fix and can indicate a
bad thrust bearing and out of tolerance end play.
(Deduct three points for each minor oil leak. Deduct seven points
for a front seal leak. Deduct one hundred points for a crack in the
block even if it has been repaired. Deduct 100 points for a leaking
rear oil seal.)
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Under Panels
Under panels are largely discounted by many people as
unnecessary or just extra baggage. This is very bad thinking that can
lead to serious problems. The panels were installed at the factory to
protect more expansive parts from damage.
| Radiator
Panel - The panel under the radiator
prevents rocks from the road from being thrown up into the fan that can
accelerate them into the radiator and other valuable components. A lack
of under panels is an indication of poor maintenance.
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| Alternator
Hose - The alternator cooling hose and rear cover provide water
protection and cooling. Since the alternator is mounted low on the
engine it is necessary to keep
excess water from accumulating in the back causing
electrical failure.
(Deduct three points for each missing under panel)
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Smog Devices
| Smog
Pump - The 1980 model and some of the EURO models were the
only years that did not have a smog pump.
(Deduct 5 points for a missing smog pump and hoses)
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| Catalytic
Converter - Also most cars had catalytic
converters. Catalytic converters can become clogged on high mileage cars
and reduce power. Often these are removed or gutted. In many states this
is illegal. In California the seller is financially responsible for all
of the smog devices working when the car is sold. Catalytic converters
are very good at reducing pollution with little loss in power.
(Deduct from 15
points for missing catalytic converters)
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