Paint
Technical Information and Restoration Parts for the 928

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Paint Work (MAX 150 Points)

The 928 used a high quality catalyzed paint.  The metallic colors are clear coated while the solid colors are not.  The original paint is available and most good quality body shops can blend colors for a perfect match.  Since the paint is not lacquer based repairs must be done on a panel basis. 

bulletScratches and Dents - Over time and miles even the most conscientious driver will pick up a few scratches and dings.  Many of the minor dings can be repaired with the new Paintless Dent Repair.  Lacquer paints can be use to touch up minor scratches without repainting an entire panel.  Today many states and areas have banned lacquer paints.  If this is the case then the only option remains repainting the entire panel.  With metallic colors it is not always possible to spot them even with lacquer.  The best way to evaluate the cost of repairs to the paint and body is to get a couple of estimates.  Most body shops write free estimates.  
(Deduct 10 points for each panel that needs to be touched up or repainted)
bulletFading and Peeling - The two part paint use in the late 1970's and early 1980's was prone to sun burn.  Often the base coat will remain and the clear coat will dull and craze, especially with the dark metallic colors.  Solid colors can also fade - especially Red that oxidizes quickly.  It is best if the car has been covered or garaged most of its life.  Many of the dull paint jobs can be restored with a buffer and a little work.  This in many cases is a judgment call and a good detail shop will be able to determine if the paint is restorable.  Check the inside lower portion of the door jambs for peeling.  The passenger side jamb is particularly vulnerable. 
(Deduct 10 points for each panel than needs to be repainted)
bulletRepaint - There are a number of ways to check for a possible repaint - besides asking the seller.  Very few shops doing a partial or full repaint will remove all of the trim components and instead take the short cut of masking.  Some masking jobs can be very good and it is difficult to detect that a portion of the car has been repainted.  By looking closely under and around gaskets it is possible to spot paint lines and over spray.  More than one spot on the car should be looked at as the car could be a complete repaint or just a partial fix up.  On many of the early metallic colors the roof, hood and rear lid have been repainted.  Another tip off is the factory stick on labels found in the drivers side jamb.  These are affixed at the factory and can not be purchased.  Often these are completely painted over or have ridges around than from masking tape.  
Starting in 1987 Porsche affixed a tag to all of the body parts on the car.  Again if these are missing then the car has been repainted.  Check the rear bumper - often the lack of labels is a sign of a repaint.  Check the side of all of the jambs - they should be shiny and the paint should flow over into the jambs.  If there is line then that panel has been repainted.  Check behind the gaskets by slightly pushing them out of the way.  At the factory the car was painted without the gaskets installed.  Again look for a line or primer or even paint on the gasket.  Raise the headlights and look towards the rims for over spray or a different shade. 
(Deduct 10 points for each panel that needs to be repainted to make up for a bad job.  Original paint in excellent shape add three points for each panel.  Deduct 45 points if the car needs a complete paint job)
 

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