Trim

Technical Information and Restoration Parts for the 928

Trim (Max 50 Points)

Locks - The door locks on the earlier models had a tendency to break. Also it is common for the tumblers to stick making it difficult to operate with the key. A bit of liquid wrench or graphite will free up the tumblers and make them work smoothly. When locks are replaced many times they will not be matched with the key. Cars with a a factor alarm should have both a long key and a short one. If the car is equipped with a rear glove box it should have a separate key. There should be two long keys - one with a built in light - two short keys and an optional rear glove box key. Don't forget to check the front glove box and gas cap for a matching key.
(Deduct 2 points for missing keys. Deduct 4 points for a missing long key or for each lock that does not match or does not work smoothly.)

Trim and Gaskets - German rubber gaskets are notoriously short life times and are very expensive. The early pre - 1981 cars had excellent door gaskets that hold up for many years. The later door gaskets are softer on the edges and are easily gouged or torn. The lower window outside gasket deteriorates quickly. Other gaskets to check closely are the rear hatch, upper window channel and sunroof. The foam on the inside of the hood deteriorates with heat and age. The black trim around the windows can fade with time. These can be repainted to look like new. The gas filler has two gaskets one a flap that hangs down when filling the tank and a seal that connects the filler with the body. The sealing gasket rots with age on the lower portion of the seal.
(Deduct 4 points for each bad gasket. Deduct 4 points for faded trim. Deduct 3 points for each missing piece of trim. )

Leaks - Porsches are historically know for leaks that are difficult to fix even after restoration. The 928 keeps up this long Porsche tradition and should be water tested either with a hose or by going through a car wash. (Many owners will be against the car wash idea and even against the hose, but if you are planning on driving in the rain this is an important test to make ) The most common areas for leaks are:

In front of the right side windshield the drain on the ventilation system can get plugged up and case the overflow to soak the fuse panel and front floor mat.

The Sunroof is designed to leak and the excess water to drain out the drain tubes. These tubes can become clogged causing water to back up and drain out around the sunroof and towards the back of the headliner.

The gasket on the rear hatch can leak towards the top and one the sides.

The gaskets on the rear two quarter windows can leak between the glass and gasket. The most common area is where the water accumulates on the real of the window. Water from this area will drain onto the rear carpets and into the spare tire well.

The rear hatch hinges are mounted with gaskets. When work is done in this area it is common that the hinges are not sealed correctly. Also there are two small gaskets that attach to each top inside corner of the hatch. Often these fall off or just do not get reinstalled when work is done on the hatch. When the gaskets are left off the holes on the hatch are not plugged and water can leak in.

The rear hatch opening toward the top had treaded attachments that are designed to allow a roof rack to be mounted. When the roof rack is not in place these holes are sealed with plastic threaded plugs. Often these can be left out.

The two roof trim rails are secured at the rear by two painted trim pieces that are held in place with a single screw. These trim pieces are mounted in sealant. Either the trim holder can be missing entirely or the the sealant not used when they are re-installed and thus leak into the rear of the car.

(Deduct 7 points for each leak that is detected)