Suspension - It is difficult to do a complete suspension check without an alignment rack.  The basic check is to isolate possible areas of trouble in order to determine if a further in depth inspection is warranted.  

	Loose wheels - Loose wheel bearing can be detected by shaking the front tires at the top.  There should be no play.  If there is play in any of the wheels it should be investigated further by an alignment shop.
	Bad Shocks - The suspension on the 928 is pretty stiff.  Typically one bounces the front and back of the car to see how many times it bounces.  In the case of the 928 it should be difficult to get any movement out of either end.   (Deduct 10 points for each end that has movement - Add 10 points for Koni or special shocks if less than 10,000 miles old)
	Worn tires - Both front and rear tires should wear evenly.  The replacement cost of tires while not cheap are a portion of the operating costs of a 928.  Tire life times are short even by sports cars standards.  Typically a seller will replace some or all of the tires before offering the car for sale.  This is a cheap way of upping the price and can be used to hide alignment problems.  One is better off viewing the car with tires that have been on the car for a few thousand miles.   (Deduct 5 points for each tire that needs replacement)
	Alignment - To properly align the 928 requires a specialty alignment shop.  Ideally the ride height should be set and each wheel balanced for weight.  If the tires show signs of wear or any of the suspension parts need to be replaced then a full four wheel alignment is required.  (Deduct 15 points if the car needs alignment)
	Aluminum Ball Joints -  Some early models (pre 1983) had aluminum lower ball joints.  These wear and should be converted to steel joints.  A magnet can be used to test the lower joints and the arm that holds them.  If the magnet does not stick they are aluminum.   (Deduct 15 points for aluminum ball joints)
	Bent Suspension Parts - The 928 rides low to the ground and the suspension can easily be damaged.  A good visual inspection should be made of the trailing arms, the sway bars, tie rod ends and anything else that hangs down.  (Deduct from 10 to 50 points for suspension damage.  Also arrange for a follow up inspection with a frame shop)
	Constant Velocity Joints - The axle constant velocity joints are a periodic service item.  Each joint is has a rubber boot that keeps the grease inside the joint.  With age and mileage these boots get hard and crack.  The boots should look and feel soft and flexible.  If one is bad all of them should be serviced.  A broken boot causes the grease to be flung out while driving leaving the Constant Velocity Joint dry causing the bearing to wear.= (Deduct 5 points if any of the boots is old.  Deduct 10 points if one or more of the boots are broken.)
	Steering Rack Boots - Each end of the steering rack has a boot that keeps out dirt.  If the boots are broken there is a good chance that the rack is leaking as well.   (Deduct 20 points for a leaking or noisy steering rack)
	Ride Height - The height of the car as measured from the suspension is 170-180 Millimeters from the ground.  This is a difficult measurement to make and should only be done after the suspension has been driven in.  A quick and dirty way to measure ride high is at the center of the wheel well.  The fenders should measure the same from side to side, approximately 27 inches in the front and 24 inches in the rear off the ground.  This measurement should be done with the car on level ground.  One corner of the car being significantly lower than the rest it is a sign of suspension problems such as a broken or weak spring.  It is not uncommon for people to lower the front of the car for a "better look" and better handling.  This is a mistake and should be corrected. On early models the front shocks do not have ride height adjustments.  Adjustments require shims.   (Deduct 20 points for significant ride height difference.  Deduct 5 points if the front shocks do not have height adjustments.)