R & R

Technical Information and Restoration Parts for the 928

Pod Removal and Replacement

PRELIMINARY

The pod is attached to the steering column with two long hex bolts. These bolts run through two arms molded into the column. The bolts go through spacers that support the sides of the pod and hold the instrument cluster in place. There are two smaller bolts on the front of the pod.

In theory it is possible to remove these four bolts and slide the pod up and off. However in practice the windshield gets in the way. The easiest approach is to remove both the steering wheel and the column switches.

(Warning - Do not attempt this procedure with cars equipped with air bags)

Steering Wheel - Before removing the wheel be sure to set the car straight. The horn button can be removed by pulling up quickly on the edges. Once the button pops off the wire for the horn can be disconnected. The steering wheel is held on with a 27 mm nut. Use a breaker bar with an extension to remove the nut, being careful not to hit the windshield. It is a good idea to cover the wrench handle with a towel. The steering wheel can then be pulled straight off. Rocking it back and forth can help loosen the grip on the spline.

Accessory Panels - The rheostats at the bottom of the pod are covered by a plastic trim held in place with two Phillips screws. The lower steering column below the column switches is covered by a trim. The lower column panel is held is place with two bolts that attach to the lower portion of the pod and a single Phillips screw. (If you are sending in the core pod for reconditioning send the lower column panel and it will be color matched to the pod.)

Column Switches - The column switches are held in place with a single bolt that holds tension on a ring. Loosening the bolt allows the column switches to be slide forward off the steering column. There are two plugs on the back side of the switch that slide back and off remaining in place.

Pod Removal - Locate the two hex bolts under the pod. There are two bolts on the ignition side of the pod. One passes through the ignition switch into an "L" shaped piece and the other one passes through the "L" shaped piece into the top of the pod. It will do to remove either of these bolts. The other bolt is located on the far left side of the pod. Once removed the pod can be lifted up and pulled forward and off. The connection around the ignition switch can be tight and should be removed first. There is a rubber bushing that pushes into the pod that is removable.

Electrical - The wires to the two rheostat switches and the intensive washer button need to be pulled off. These are individual push on plugs. The light switches and knobs need to be removed. The knobs just pull off. The switches are held in place by a clip that snaps into the pod. A pair of needle nose pliers are best to release the switches. Once released the switches push out of the front of the pod. Each switch plugs into a wiring harness. It is best that the battery be disconnected when removing the switches. The connections to the switches are hot even with the ignition switch off and can short against the pod. Some to the switches are internally fused so a short can ruin the switch.

When the pod is removed the spacers that hold the instrument cluster in place will fall out. Save these for reinstallation. The instrument cluster can remain in place as the pod is removed. Alternatively the plugs can be disconnected from the cluster and the cluster removed at the same time.

Installation

There are a few tips that can help on installation.

Cluster Spacers - There are two cluster spacers for each side of the instrument cluster. It is very important that these be put back in. If they are not the pod will not sit level and the cluster will be loose. The spacers also prevent the hex bolts from going to far into the pod and lifting the surface.

The easiest way to install the pod is to attach the hex bolt on the right side the pod with the "L" bracket and the two spaces in place. Slide the Cluster in place with the spacers on the left side of the cluster in place and then slide the pod over the ignition switch. Leave the bolt holding the "L" bracket a little loose so the "L" bracket can be fitted to the ignition switch. Once the "L" bracket is aligned with the ignition switch using the second hex bolt the bolt on the left side of the pod will align easily.

Light Switches - Before tightening the pod in place, slide the switch plugs through the appropriate holes. Once the pod is in place the switches can be hooked up and then slid back into the pod. The knobs then just push back on.

(Some of the knobs have a color filter. Over time the filters discolor blocking the light. Removing the plastic insert in the knob exposes the filter which can be removed increasing the light from the dash lights in the knobs)

The rest of the installation is straight forward and just the reverse of the removal.

Other Maintenance Items

While the pod is of it is a good time to do other maintenance items.

Steering Column Bushing - The bushing at the top of the column is a common wear point.

Ignition Switch - The electrical portion of the ignition switch wears and is easily accessible with the pod off. If the key lock is bad it can be changed at the same time.

Lights - Replace the dash and warning light bulbs. A higher wattage than stock can be used to increase the dash light output. The bottom of the cluster has a redirection reflector that causes the dash lights to reflected onto the surface of the gauges. Under the reflector is a piece of opaque plastic that can yellow with age and cut down the amount of light transferred to the gauges. This can be removed to increase the amount of light. The back of the reflectors lose their coating over time letting light escape. The backs of the reflectors can be recoated to help transfer more light.

Cleaning - The plastic on the cluster gets scratched and dull over time. Meguiar's makes a two step Plastic Polish that does an excellent job of removing scratches and restoring the luster to the plastic. Be sure to use a lint free cloth for cleaning.

Printed Circuit Board - The printed circuit board on the back of the cluster can corrode over time. It can be either cleaned or in the extreme case replaced. If the insulating material is discolored or separated then the circuit board has to be replaced. Otherwise just cleaning the connections is fine. The plug connections can be cleaned with a soft pencil eraser.

Speedometer Gear - A common source of failure is the Odometer drive gear. If this has failed it is a good time to send the Speedometer to be repaired.