Qua Glass

Technical Information and Restoration Parts for the 928

Rear Quarter Glass

Removal

Removing the rear quarter glass without cutting the gasket is not an easy task, especially if the glass and gasket has been glued. However with a little patience and care both the window and gasket can be removed without damaging the paint.

Warning: Before attempting removal you should evaluate the cost of a new gasket over the value of your paint job. What is described below will work, but there is no guarantee that you will not slip and damage the paint.

Tip: Blue masking tape can be used to cover the paint to protect it against the accidental slip or two.

Warning: All of the glass other than the windshield is made of tempered glass. Tempered glass is difficult to break. A great deal of pressure can be applied to the surface, however even a small tap to the edge of the glass will cause it to fracture in many small pieces. Therefore it is very important to avoid putting any direct pressure on the edge of the glass.

1. Remove the trim around the window. On the 'S' cars this including removing the spoiler tail. The 'S' spoiler is held in place by one screw on the inside of the hatch channel and two hidden Phillips head screws under the lower lip of the rubber. A spacer can be used to push the rubber of the spoiler back, but do not exert too mush pressure as the spoiler tears easily.

2. Go to the home improvement store (Home Depot is a good source) and buy a set of plastic spacers for installing Pergo Flooring. If you cannot find these particular spacers get some bond spreaders from the body shop supply store.

3. Using one of the plastic spacers insert it between the body and gasket. On the gasket side of the spacer insert a utility knife blade. Slide the blade and the spacer along separating the gasket from the body. A little oil or grease can help. This will help separate the window from the body and release some of the sealant holding the window in place.

4. From the inside of the car push up on the edge of the gasket to release any tension. The job is easier if the interior quarter panel has been removed. (need link)

5. Insert a pair of spacers between the gasket and body at the top middle of the window. Between the two spacers insert a flat tipped screwdriver. The spacer against the body will protect the paint and the spacer between the spacer and the gasket will prevent the window from being pinched and broken.

6. It will take a bit of pressure to push the window away from the body. Letting the car sit in the direct sunlight or in a warm garage will help soften the sealant. As the gasket is pulled away from the body push the back of the gasket under the lip from inside the car.

7. Using the remaining spacers move along the top of the window in either direction prying and inserting spacers to both protect the paint and keep the window from springing back in place.

8. Once the top of the window is released additional spacers can be inserted into the starting point until the bottom of the window lets go.

Tip: Body shop supply houses sell a spray release agent that can be applied to the sealant to soften it and make the window easier to remove.

Tip: Lacquer thinner can be used to clean up a used gasket. Vaseline rubbed the gasket can help soften it. Be sure to get the residue off before installing with new sealant.

Installation

Installing the quarter window is a fairly simple job, but like everything else must be done just right. The quarter windows are prone to leaks both under the gasket and between the glass and gasket.

1. Clean the glass. Dirty glass will fail to seal to the gasket causing water to follow the dirt and leak.

2. I use black Silicon to seal the gasket to the window. An excess amount is not much of a concern as it can be neatly trimmed off when finished. Apply the silicon to the inner grove of the gasket, insert the glass and allow to dry over night. You can use some string of duct tape to hold the gasket in place while drying.

3. Once the gasket is bonded to the window clean the surface of the car where the gasket will set. Be careful not to scratch paint as moisture can start rust. If there is rust under the gasket it should be treated and primed. SEM makes a great rust encapsulation product.

Tip: If there is rust but it does not extend beyond the gasket or extends to an edge of the body the paint can be matched by masking to the edge and painting the surface. The edge can often be blended into the paint to create a seamless job.

4. Tie a string around the inner grove of the gasket. Any string will generally work, but the smoother the better. Fill the window frame on the car with a thick bead of Black Silicon. Set the gasket into the window frame with the loose ends of the string inside of the car.

5. While putting mild to light pressure on the window pull one end of the string in an up working slowly around the window. The silicon should work as a lubricate and the edge of the gasket should slide on over the lip in the window frame. If the gasket is difficult to get started a hook can be used to get it going. It is best to start either from the middle top of the bottom and then used the blunt hook to secure the two corners as they are approached.

6. As the gasket comes in over the lip push it down with your fingers to get a better fit while pushing the window from the outside further into the frame. Once the window is in place give a final seating and set the gasket firmly onto the inside of the frame.

Tip: The job can be done alone, but it goes much faster and easier with a second person.

Trim Installation

Before installing the trim it is a good idea to refresh the look. SEM makes a OEM Trim primer and paint. It is a very forgiving product and matches the tone and luster of the original anodizing.

1. Clean the trim with lacquer thinner. Sand with 400 to 600 grit Wet or Dry sand paper. Prime if there are any bare metal surfaces. Spray with two coats of SEM Original Trim Paint.

2. If there are ends that are inserted on the ends of the trim put them on before putting the trim in place. Attempting to slip the ends on after the trim is in place can cause it to slip out of the groove forcing you to start back at the beginning.

3. Insert a string in the grove of the gasket. Push the trim down at one end into the gasket and then pull the string out slowly while putting pressure on the trim. The gasket will spread a little as the string is removed allowing the trim to slip into the grove. This is a job that may require some practice to make it go smoothly.

Tip: Do not use a lubricant as the extra slickness will cause the trim to slip out and loose the seal.

4. On the 'S' cars the spoiler tip goes on last. Groit's Garage sells an excellent colorant to restore the natural black of the rubber spoiler. Be sure to clean the spoiler completely before applying the colorant. Groit's Garage also sells a wax remover that is very good at removing oil wax residue.