Storage
Since the 928 is a special car that evokes strong, many times where other
cars would be sold the 928 finds its way into quiet hibernation.
Since my car was stored for 15 years, there were many things that needed
attention when it was put back on the road.
While all of the things listed may not need attention based on the time in
storage, they are worth checking.
Preparation for Hibernation
Many times the start of a period of hibernation is the result of mechanical
failure or an unintended event. But there are times when one can plan
ahead. For those cases here are some steps that are well worth taking.
Gas - Over time gasoline goes stale and can ever turn into a very
tough and ugly varnish. The gas tank should be drained and the engine
run until it dies.
Cooling System - The cooling system should never be left with
just water - even in warm climates. Most modern cars run coolant.
The coolant should be topped up and the blend should be 50% coolant. The
best policy is to use distilled water for the mix.
Tires - Even a few weeks is enough time to create flat spots
on tires. The car should not be stored with the tires in contact with
the floor or ground. Use blocks under the chassis or axles to take the
weight off the tires.
Brakes - The brake rotors through use are raw exposed steel.
Over time these will oxidize and in the sever case require the rotors to be
turned. A light spraying of WD 40 can keep them from rusting for a while.
Cover - Even is a garage the paint will accumulate dirt and
inevitably things get placed on the car as storage. The car should be
covered and out of the sun. A plastic cover will accumulate moisture
between the cover and the finish. The build up of moisture will
eventually destroy the paint and even cause rust. The cover should be
thick, soft and breathable.
Battery - Even for short periods of time the battery should be
removed from the car. Fumes can build up under the cover and leech into
the interior causing corrosion. A disconnected battery can still corrode
and ruin a battery box. After the battery is removed the battery box
should be neutralized with baking soda and water.
Wiring - The wiring on the 928 is prone to corrosion under normal
conditions. Using a dielectric grease on exposed connections and even
the fuses can save trouble later.
Preparation for Operation
It is tempting to just put a fresh battery in the car and try to start
it. If the car has been in storage for more than a year this will create
more damage and increase the maintenance costs down the road. The longer a
car has been in storage the more important it is to carefully check each system
before operation.
Less than Two Years
Gas - Drain the gas tank and change the gas filter.
Replace with fresh gas and add a can of Berryman's Gas Treatment. After
the first tank of gas add a pint of Marvel Mystery Oil. Of course all of
the gas lines should be check for leaks and deterioration.
Oil - Change the engine oil and filter. Oil over time will
deteriorate and offer inferior lubrication. Add a pint of Marvel Mystery
Oil to the new oil.
Battery - Replace with a fresh battery and clean and grease the
terminals. The ground strap on the battery where it attaches to the
chassis should be cleaned an sealed with dielectric grease.
Fuse Panel - The fuses on the fuse panel should be cleaned and the
relays reseated to make sure there is a good connection.
Fluids - All the fluid levels should be checked - Power
steering, Transmission and Radiator. When checking the coolant level
also check all of the heater hose and replace any that are not flexible.
Less Than Five Years
Follow all of the procedure for one year in addition to the following.
Gas - After draining and discarding any old gas, remove the fuel
gauge sending unit and inspect for varnish. If there is dried gas
residue the soak the unit inn Berryman's until it is clean. Pour a pint
of Berryman's in the bottom of the gas tank and let it set for a day or
two. Drain the Berryman's and remove and replace the tank fuel
screen. Overtime the plastic that the screen is made from
deteriorates. When the screen fragments go directly into the fuel pump
destroying it.
Coolant - Drain the coolant and replace with an Aluminum friendly
coolant. Replace the heater hoses and the hoses leading to the reservoir.
Replace the thermostat.
Brakes - Flush and refill the brake fluid. Inspect the brake
lines and replace the Blue Clutch Feed line. Remove the tires and use an
emery cloth to clean the rust from the disks. This is optional as they
will clean up with the first few miles of driving but the braking will not be
very good at first.
Automatic Transmission - Drain the fluid and replace the filter
screen and pan gasket.
Body - Oil all of the hinges. Lubricate the sun roof tracks
and cables.
Over Five Years
Gas - Replace all gas and vacuum lines.
Coolant - Replace all water hoses. Check closely the metal line
between the engine and the reservoir for rust and pitting. Replace the
the temperature switch in the radiator.
Timing Belt - Timing belts deteriorate with age and can lose
teeth. This may not be critical for a 16 valve engine and really only
increases reliability, but for a 32 valve engine it is a must. Replace
the timing belt, the water pump and the idler pulleys. While the pulleys
may seem ok being subject to moisture for long periods of storage can cause
the lubrication to fail.
Axle Boots - Replace all axle boots and refill with
grease. Check the boots on the ball joints.
Fluids - Replace the differential fluid. Replace the power steering
fluid. Replace the supply line to the power steering pump. Check
the boots on the rack.
Manual Transmission - Replace the the manual transmission
fluid. Replace the flex line on the clutch slave cylinder.
Brakes - Remove and turn the rotors. Replace the brake pads.
Electrical - Clean the fuse panel and replace all of the fuses.
Clean all ground contacts. Remove the Pod and clean all of the
contacts. If there is corrosion replace the Pod printed circuit board.
Engine - Replace the spark plugs and check the plug
wires. Check all of the vacuum lines. Replace the air
filter.
Summary
Of course a complete visual and operational check should be done. Once
the car is running and the maintenance items have been attended to, the car
should be driven and all systems checked the first 100 mile and then every few
hundred miles. It is typical for the car to run a little rough and be
stiff for the first few hundred miles. Tires will have flat spots that run
out over time. Shocks and bushing will be stiff until run a few hundred
miles. There will often be rattles and electrical gremlins that disappear
over time.
